We’ve visited several Mediterranean islands and enjoyed holidays on the coast in Italy and France and they’re generally characterised by complex histories with multiple invasions which have left their stamp. Not so Corsica.
It might be over simplifying it but Corsica’s history spans the eighteenth century and not much more. Earlier it was run from Italy, first Rome then Genoa, hence all the Italian surnames. And later it’s been French. In between there’s been a period of independence and a couple of years when the Brits were involved. It’s where Nelson’s eye problem originated.
And it’s got just two ‘favorite sons’ (with text from Wikipedia):
Filippo Antonio Pasquale de’ Paoli or Pasquali Paoli was a Corsican patriot, statesman and military leader who was at the forefront of resistance movements against the Genoese and later French rule over the island. He became the President of the Executive Council of the General Diet of the People of Corsica and wrote the Constitution of the state.
Napoleon Bonaparte was born in Corsica and became Emperor of the French from 18 May 1804 until his first abdication in 1814, with a brief restoration during the Hundred Days in 1815. He rose to prominence as a general during the French Revolution and led a series of military campaigns across Europe and the Middle East during the French Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars. As a statesman, he implemented numerous legal and administrative reforms in France and Europe.
But as if to compensate it’s got the most varied landscape: mountains with snow on top, both granite and limestone cliffs, and coastal plains. In terms of infrastructure it’s perhaps under developed but that lends to a sense that it’s unspoilt, there are no motorways and there’s a scenery which at times shows little evidence of man-made intrusion.
We had a great week with good hotels in Calvi and Porto Vecchia. We also visited Porto, Bastia, Paoli’s capital Corte and Bonafacio with good experiences and few frustrations. My five highlights of the trip are:
- Dinner at le Nautic in Calvi where we enjoyed cocktails and good food at the water’s edge. And when it cooled we were given blankets to keep us warm;
- Bonifacio. We visited several towns and each had its highlight but the all-round experience at Bonifacio was the best, from the boat trip through lunch and the train ride to the walking tour at the top;
- The Armistice Day event at Zonza. This was totally unexpected and a bonus;
- Sensible travel planning on the last day meaning we had time for lunch at port-side in Solenzara. If we hadn’t done that we’d have had a boring morning and a boring journey to the airport; and
- The Hotel Acquale in Canvi. Classy with super responsive service including the evening bar and an excellent buffet breakfast with super scrambled eggs.
Although there are impressive marinas in several towns Corsica doesn’t seem to have succumbed to mass tourism. Those that visit largely come from Italy and France with few Brits (not much English is spoken) and Germans (except those on high powered motor bikes). It’s worth a visit.
Click here for a selection of photographs.
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