Dog and Duck, Linton; 20 Mar 10

Maybe is should be the ‘Cane ed Anatra’ because the Dog and Duck in Linton runs an Italian restaurant. And it does it without abandoning its roots either because it’s still  a local pub with all the attendant features: real ale, lots of locals and smokers in the garden!

We went in the usual group because we’d heard it was good although perhaps a little rustic. We were not disappointed.

Jane took our order. She recited the specials menu in a manner common enough in the US but rare over here where the usual response to ‘what’s special’ is ‘go and look at the board’.  But Jane was splendid and the food arrived with speed. We has starters and main courses: the latter included 2 sea bass, 2 veal, a sirloin steak and a pasta dish. I had veal which is not usual but given that we were in an Italian restaurant, worth the risk. It was fine. But the fish was too much: too many competing flavours and a little too much on the plate.

There’s no Italian beer at the Cane ed Anatra and the wine list is miserly, barely a dozen wines, albeit all available by the glass. But there is an excellent grappa which did not appear on our bill.  The food itself was more wholesome than fine but it was good value. and the service was good. Rustic was not a bad descriptor.

Overseeing it all was Dragan, a Croatian of some talent. He certainly imbues his team with humour and energy and his ability to take a mixed order and remember it whilst maintaining a brisk repartee was impressive. Good value, worth a visit; check it out at www.dogandducklinton.co.uk.