Brownlow Arms, Hough-on-the-Hill; 20 Feb 11

Not a lot of people know very much about Lincolnshire. It’s flat, it’s got a bit of a war-time history as a base for many bombing raids and it’s got a number of sea-side resorts which are known more for the sea breezes than the sunshine. It borders on Cambridgeshire to the north and I was surprised to chance upon it once when I was walking around Parson Drove; I just turned a corner and I was in Lincolnshire. But many people just drive through it when they use the A1 to go north.

That’s why the wife and I were there today, deep in Lincolnshire, because it’s roughly midway between Cambridge and Leeds which is where number one daughter lives. We needed to meet her so it made sense to meet for lunch in Lincolnshire: at the Brownlow Arms in Hough-on-the-Hill.

Lincolnshire is flat so to be called ‘on-the Hill’ is something special and there really is a hill there. In fact whilst we were there I saw many mountain bikers cycling through the centre of the village. They must have come from miles away just for the thrill of cycling up and down a hill!

The Brownlow Arms (click here for its web-site)  is a 17th century country inn and boasts ‘exceptional’ accommodation. and an ‘Award Winning’ restaurant. We’ll have to take their word for the former but we did sample the latter and it was pretty good.

The restaurant is typically country. In fact the Brownlow Arms is still a ‘working pub’ with 2 generous dining areas. There’s nothing light about the furnishings although you are spared the horse brasses. There are well-upholstered comfy chairs in the bar and simple dark wooden tables and chairs in the food area. Prints on the wall, heavy drapes and good quality cutlery and glassware complete the picture. It’s a place mats and not a white linen place.

The menu for Sunday lunch is eclectic. Starters included soft shell crabs, goat’s cheese and prawns with chilli sauce. Not exactly country but the three of us enjoyed the soft shell crabs. The mains are traditional without much of a nod towards nouvelle cuisine. We had beef, pork and lamb and all three dishes were delicious and generous. There were excellent roast potatoes to up the cardiac level but plenty of greens as well. There was also a fish option. Deserts continued the heavy theme although my fellow diners shared the Brownie and pronounced it excellent. I went straight to coffee and was deeply disappointed. No espresso, only the ubiquitous ‘filter coffee’. It was dreadful.

There’s a good wine list with an excellent choice of wine by the glass. Water was served from the jug and there was no automatic service charge on the bill. Service was excellent and intelligent so merited an appropriate tip.

The comment about the coffee might seem churlish but it was close to being the last memory. The Brownlow Arms is to be recommended but don’t drink the coffee!