Swynford Hotel; 26 Dec 10

I remember someone once telling me that he’d inherited two characteristics from his father, viz premature balding  and being a supporter of Manchester City, and that there was nothing he could do to change them. This was some years ago when being such a supporter would be regarded as eccentric but with billions now behind the club it’s a little different. Anyway today I have to live with two other characteristics. These are my love of order on the one hand and my increasingly paid-up membership of the grumpy old men’s club.

It’s been a good Christmas so far as long as you can discount the cold which I picked up early last week and which caused me to answer ‘I hope I’ve got a cold’ to those who asked ‘how are you’. Flu is not fun and I didn’t want that. Anyway Santa Claus read my wish list and delivered and all the special offers I took advantage of seem to have delighted the family. And yesterday being Boxing Day we went for lunch to the Swynford Hotel which is what we’ve done for most of the last 10 years.

I say Swynford Hotel but of course it has always been the Swynford Paddocks which characterised the place as being ‘of Newmarket’ and surrounded by fields. It’s always had class but suffered occasional glitches (the coffee machine for example was always ‘just being repaired’) and so it’s recently been acquired by new owners who have chosen to change its name. Not in any major way admittedly but I always think it’s a mistake for any business to ignore its heritage and ‘paddocks’ is a part of this business’s heritage.

The lady who took my booking way back defended the hotel’s decision and mercifully didn’t ask for payment in advance: that at least was an improvement. She did however send me a menu which was thoughtful.

On the day we were looked after by perhaps the youngest front of house team I’ve seen in such an establishment for a long time (ever?). Perhaps it’s like policemen, the older you get the younger they seem. But they were young and obviously not vastly experienced. There were some nerves not helped by my usual too-clever-by half behaviour but overall they were excellent.

The menu was also different. Only 3 choices for each course, all attractive to me (which makes it I guess by definition a good menu) and not a turkey dish in site. The wine list was also very short and perhaps delivers more but pretends less. As a wine list however it could be better. Thankfully they still have the Chilean Santa Rita wines on the list: it’s one of the wineries I’ve visited and its merlot is very drinkable.

We enjoyed Jerusalem artichoke soup and smoked salmon (seemed more marinated than smoked to me) starters,duck and beef (mercifully not over-cooked) for mains and apple and calvados creme brullee for desert. All perfectly well cooked, presented and served. And afterwards there was espresso from the coffee machine which is now working. May it continue so to do!

The hotel itself only claims 3 stars, but that’s more about facilities than quality, and the restaurant seems a little under-stated which is a pity. There is good brand heritage to be exploited, the position is splendid and maybe come the springtime confidence will have built and it’s worth returning.