Fitzbillies, Cambridge; 23 Oct 10

Way back in the mists of time I went to geology lectures on the Downing site. I seem to recall an early lecture followed later on by practical with a free hour in between. One of my mates at the time was, I think, Andrew Jackson. He was at Pembroke College which is conveniently close to the Downing site and so we’d be able to go back to his room for coffee. The incentive was not the coffee but the fresh bread which you could buy just across the road at Fitzbillies.

Fitzbillies is still there. It’s still sells fresh bread and it also seems to be a pretty good cake shop. And these days it seems to be twice the size with a cafe connected to it. Before yesterday I’d been there twice. Now it’s three times and it’s to be recommended. It’s very good and to call it a cafe is perhaps correct but totally under-rates it.

Last week was quite a week with too much of a carbon footprint starting with the return trip to Bradford last Sunday. So last night I was looking for a little quiet entertainment: a change from eating at home but nothing too riotous. The wife suggested Fitzbillies so I booked, not necessary but advisable, and we went.

It’s only a small establishment, maybe 20 max 25 covers, and it only opens for dinners Friday and Saturday although it does lunch daily and, being a cake shop as well, it does afternoon teas. For dinner the menu is perfect: just 4 or 5 choices for each course and a wine list with half a dozen very drinkable reds and whites by the glass. The food itself I guess is British with Mediterranean overtones. Nicely cooked simple meat and fish with olives and balsamic in evidence.

We enjoyed a spinach souffle and a black olive tart to start with followed by rack of lamb and grilled salmon. Nothing special, just excellent. I’m sorry but there was no room for desert, had there been I’d have gone for the creme brulle, so an espresso completed the meal. First class.

And if that’s not enough Fitzbillies boasts an ‘ethical’ wine policy. This has nothing to do with not buying wine from countries ruled by dictators, although mercifully that’s not such a constraint as it was, but is all about not setting gouging prices. And so the wines at Fitzbillies are good, with several available by the glass, and priced to deliver what I presume is a fair margin but without bankrupting the customer. What an excellent policy. Let’s hope it catches on!